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AnΒ RV leveling block is like a mini ramp for your tires to rest on. Most are made of plastic, and many are designed to stack up and connect with each other to form a graduated series of flat surfaces for parking a tire.
Some people use wood or concrete blocks for leveling, but both are porous materials that can break down when they come in contact with moisture on the ground. Plus, plastic blocks are often easier to store, clean, and carry.
Park your RV and engage your parking brake. Extend any slide-outs you have, because theyβll affect how level your RV will end up. Check out how to level your RV already is from side to side, and identify where youβll need to lift it. You can use a handheld level to get a reading or attach one or more to your RV. Pull your slide-outs back in. Place your blocks right up to the tires youβll raise, positioned so you can drive up to them like a ramp.
You always want to keep one tire on the ground. Back your RV onto the blocks, re-engage the parking brake and check the readings on your levels. If youβre good to go, place a wheel chock in front of the tire you lifted on the opposite side the level is on so that your wheel doesnβt roll forward. A wheel chock is not a leveling block and should not be used as one.
If you have a towable RV, unhitch it and use the tongue jack at the hitch to level your trailer from front to back. Extend all of yourΒ stabilizer jacks (manually or automatically) to further reduce any sway or wobble. When youβre ready to leave the campsite and hit the road again, undo all of your leveling in reverse order. Stabilizer jacks first, and then hitches tongue, then chocks and blocks.
For regular cars and smaller vehicles,Β chocks pads and leveling might not be of much use compared to handling bigger vehicles like an RV or a trailer. These special vehicles carry hardware and equipment that ordinary vehicles donβt. On grounds where theyβre stationed, the uneven landscape can be a risky proposition.
A regular carβs hand brakes can hold off any sliding from where itβs parked. Cars are parked mostly in places where the grounds are level enough. RVs and trailers are usually taken and parked in places where the grounds could be uneven or are not even made for vehicles.
In addition, RVs and trailers are way much heavier than ordinary vehicles. They are laden with all the needed hardware and equipment used in homes. All of these (refrigerators, stoves, air conditioners, tanks, and other equipment and provisions) greatly add up to their overall weights.
The slightest incline in the ground where they are parked without theΒ choke pads will have gravity transfer the RVs to lower parts of the place (sometimes with very bad consequences). A slight tilt to any side of the RV could move all the things inside to that side that is lower. The levelers will even out the incline in your RV floor where you can walk without the feeling of going downhill.
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Leveling your RV or travel trailer helps in many ways, and not just making sure your refrigerator works fine or maybe frying an egg and having the egg near the center of the pan and not crimped up on one side. A slight incline and your doors might not close or open correctly without a snag.
Assess first how to level your RV is from side to side and front to back. Some 2 X 10 wood pieces (or plastic leveling blocks) can help level up your RV. Mark where the wheels of your RV are and place the blocks near them and drive the RV onto the pads.
After the first drive-through where your RV is on top of the pads, you can check and recheck the correct height you think each wheel would need. (Some prefer to have some slight incline of their RVs either front and back or from side to side for some personal reasons.)
Do the same procedures again and until you get the right height or the preferred one you want for each side and end of your RV. By this time, you would know how many pads you need to level your RV the way you want it. Secure it well and youβre done.
After you finish, check your tires with a wheel chock. Your tongue jack will help you finish off the leveling job from front and back. If your RV trailer has tandem wheels, use blocks under both wheels.
The first thing is to level your RV or trailer from side to side. Once that is in order, follow it up with adjusting the height of your RV with the tongue jack from front to back. Chocks pads and leveling are necessary, or you can never park safely enough.
Even though you should always park your RV on the highest ground you can find, you should also take the extra step of actually leveling your RV. Why?
It keeps all your systems working properly, especially your plumbing.
You can get an accurate reading on your tank levels.
It helps you avoid damage to any mechanical parts like power slide-outs.
It reduces any wobble you might experience inside, which keeps you more comfortable.
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Many Class B and Class C RVs wonβt have an auto-leveling system, so youβll need to manually level your motorized RV when you arrive at your campsite.
1. Grab your bubble level and check your level both left to right and front to back. A countertop can be a good spot to place the level. TIP: You might be able to level your RV just by raising one low corner onto blocks, so check your level both left to right and front to back before you start.
2. If your level is off the only front to back, raise your front wheels or your back wheels by driving up on blocks. Which ones you raise onto blocks depends on what your level is telling you.
3. If your level is off only left to right, raise both of your right wheels or both of your left wheels by driving up on blocks. Which ones you raise onto blocks depends on what your level is telling you.
4. If your level is off a bit both left to right and front to back, adjust by raising the one low corner up on blocks.
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